Why is the “alpine style” of climbing not as popular in the Himalayas?












14














While there have been some accomplished climbers who have done this in the Himalayan peaks, alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas. Most climbing is done in the expedition style with large groups.



Is there a fundamental reason this is so? Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in 2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the Himalayas?










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    I'd say it is actually quite popular among top climbers. For many clinbs the only way to get a real recognition.
    – Vladimir F
    Dec 26 '18 at 21:45








  • 9




    Why is sailing across the British channel more popular than swimming?
    – henning
    Dec 26 '18 at 22:38










  • @henning - More popular with who? The swimmers or the sharks?
    – Don Branson
    Dec 27 '18 at 16:28
















14














While there have been some accomplished climbers who have done this in the Himalayan peaks, alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas. Most climbing is done in the expedition style with large groups.



Is there a fundamental reason this is so? Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in 2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the Himalayas?










share|improve this question




















  • 2




    I'd say it is actually quite popular among top climbers. For many clinbs the only way to get a real recognition.
    – Vladimir F
    Dec 26 '18 at 21:45








  • 9




    Why is sailing across the British channel more popular than swimming?
    – henning
    Dec 26 '18 at 22:38










  • @henning - More popular with who? The swimmers or the sharks?
    – Don Branson
    Dec 27 '18 at 16:28














14












14








14


1





While there have been some accomplished climbers who have done this in the Himalayan peaks, alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas. Most climbing is done in the expedition style with large groups.



Is there a fundamental reason this is so? Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in 2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the Himalayas?










share|improve this question















While there have been some accomplished climbers who have done this in the Himalayan peaks, alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas. Most climbing is done in the expedition style with large groups.



Is there a fundamental reason this is so? Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in 2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the Himalayas?







climbing mountaineering alpine himalaya






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share|improve this question













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edited Dec 26 '18 at 22:20









Charlie Brumbaugh

45.7k15128256




45.7k15128256










asked Dec 26 '18 at 16:53









Yogesch

239110




239110








  • 2




    I'd say it is actually quite popular among top climbers. For many clinbs the only way to get a real recognition.
    – Vladimir F
    Dec 26 '18 at 21:45








  • 9




    Why is sailing across the British channel more popular than swimming?
    – henning
    Dec 26 '18 at 22:38










  • @henning - More popular with who? The swimmers or the sharks?
    – Don Branson
    Dec 27 '18 at 16:28














  • 2




    I'd say it is actually quite popular among top climbers. For many clinbs the only way to get a real recognition.
    – Vladimir F
    Dec 26 '18 at 21:45








  • 9




    Why is sailing across the British channel more popular than swimming?
    – henning
    Dec 26 '18 at 22:38










  • @henning - More popular with who? The swimmers or the sharks?
    – Don Branson
    Dec 27 '18 at 16:28








2




2




I'd say it is actually quite popular among top climbers. For many clinbs the only way to get a real recognition.
– Vladimir F
Dec 26 '18 at 21:45






I'd say it is actually quite popular among top climbers. For many clinbs the only way to get a real recognition.
– Vladimir F
Dec 26 '18 at 21:45






9




9




Why is sailing across the British channel more popular than swimming?
– henning
Dec 26 '18 at 22:38




Why is sailing across the British channel more popular than swimming?
– henning
Dec 26 '18 at 22:38












@henning - More popular with who? The swimmers or the sharks?
– Don Branson
Dec 27 '18 at 16:28




@henning - More popular with who? The swimmers or the sharks?
– Don Branson
Dec 27 '18 at 16:28










2 Answers
2






active

oldest

votes


















18














TLDR: Because its much harder that way and the extra altitude of the Himalayas makes it that much more difficult.




Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment, etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.




Alpine Style



As the Himalayas are at extremely high altitude where supplemental oxygen is all but required and extra time is needed to acclimatize having a series of camps makes sense.



It has been done but its not the most common option for a reason.






share|improve this answer





















  • When "getting to 4000m" means a shovel and lot of digging I guess this is true.
    – Borgh
    Dec 27 '18 at 10:05



















9















alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas




Actually, as far as I can tell from the current climbing literature, alpine style climbs in the Himalaya are relatively common these days. Expedition style climbs (at least the only ones that attract any attention) are now mostly for paying customers with guides. I suspect there are also still private alpinists doing hybrid climbs in the Himalayas, but they don't get covered much in the climbing press.



The highest Himalayan peaks (8000 m) are roughly twice the height of the highest peaks in the Alps or North America outside of Alaska and the Yukon (4000 m). The additional altitude makes a huge difference: Climbers can typically acclimatize to 4000 m in a matter of days. Acclimatizing to 6000 m takes weeks, and even alpine style climbers generally have to have support teams or porters to get all the food and gear to a base camp where they do their acclimatization. Climbers don't acclimatize to altitudes over 8000 m, they slowly die. Climbers can get fatal altitude related conditions like cerebral edema at 4000 m, but the higher you go the more common these become, even with supplementary oxygen.




Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in
2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the
Himalayas?




This is too broad to be answered because "moderately experienced" is vague. Is a climber who can climb the Hornli ridge on the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, or the Gouter Hut Route on Mt. Blanc, without a guide, a moderately experience climber? They probably could qualify for a guided climb of Mt. Everest, but they'd be doing it expedition style. How about a climber who's done all the big North faces of the Alps? They might very well be invited on an alpine style climb in the Himalaya.






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    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes








    2 Answers
    2






    active

    oldest

    votes









    active

    oldest

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    active

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    18














    TLDR: Because its much harder that way and the extra altitude of the Himalayas makes it that much more difficult.




    Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment, etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.




    Alpine Style



    As the Himalayas are at extremely high altitude where supplemental oxygen is all but required and extra time is needed to acclimatize having a series of camps makes sense.



    It has been done but its not the most common option for a reason.






    share|improve this answer





















    • When "getting to 4000m" means a shovel and lot of digging I guess this is true.
      – Borgh
      Dec 27 '18 at 10:05
















    18














    TLDR: Because its much harder that way and the extra altitude of the Himalayas makes it that much more difficult.




    Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment, etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.




    Alpine Style



    As the Himalayas are at extremely high altitude where supplemental oxygen is all but required and extra time is needed to acclimatize having a series of camps makes sense.



    It has been done but its not the most common option for a reason.






    share|improve this answer





















    • When "getting to 4000m" means a shovel and lot of digging I guess this is true.
      – Borgh
      Dec 27 '18 at 10:05














    18












    18








    18






    TLDR: Because its much harder that way and the extra altitude of the Himalayas makes it that much more difficult.




    Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment, etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.




    Alpine Style



    As the Himalayas are at extremely high altitude where supplemental oxygen is all but required and extra time is needed to acclimatize having a series of camps makes sense.



    It has been done but its not the most common option for a reason.






    share|improve this answer












    TLDR: Because its much harder that way and the extra altitude of the Himalayas makes it that much more difficult.




    Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment, etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high-altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.




    Alpine Style



    As the Himalayas are at extremely high altitude where supplemental oxygen is all but required and extra time is needed to acclimatize having a series of camps makes sense.



    It has been done but its not the most common option for a reason.







    share|improve this answer












    share|improve this answer



    share|improve this answer










    answered Dec 26 '18 at 17:08









    Charlie Brumbaugh

    45.7k15128256




    45.7k15128256












    • When "getting to 4000m" means a shovel and lot of digging I guess this is true.
      – Borgh
      Dec 27 '18 at 10:05


















    • When "getting to 4000m" means a shovel and lot of digging I guess this is true.
      – Borgh
      Dec 27 '18 at 10:05
















    When "getting to 4000m" means a shovel and lot of digging I guess this is true.
    – Borgh
    Dec 27 '18 at 10:05




    When "getting to 4000m" means a shovel and lot of digging I guess this is true.
    – Borgh
    Dec 27 '18 at 10:05











    9















    alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas




    Actually, as far as I can tell from the current climbing literature, alpine style climbs in the Himalaya are relatively common these days. Expedition style climbs (at least the only ones that attract any attention) are now mostly for paying customers with guides. I suspect there are also still private alpinists doing hybrid climbs in the Himalayas, but they don't get covered much in the climbing press.



    The highest Himalayan peaks (8000 m) are roughly twice the height of the highest peaks in the Alps or North America outside of Alaska and the Yukon (4000 m). The additional altitude makes a huge difference: Climbers can typically acclimatize to 4000 m in a matter of days. Acclimatizing to 6000 m takes weeks, and even alpine style climbers generally have to have support teams or porters to get all the food and gear to a base camp where they do their acclimatization. Climbers don't acclimatize to altitudes over 8000 m, they slowly die. Climbers can get fatal altitude related conditions like cerebral edema at 4000 m, but the higher you go the more common these become, even with supplementary oxygen.




    Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in
    2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the
    Himalayas?




    This is too broad to be answered because "moderately experienced" is vague. Is a climber who can climb the Hornli ridge on the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, or the Gouter Hut Route on Mt. Blanc, without a guide, a moderately experience climber? They probably could qualify for a guided climb of Mt. Everest, but they'd be doing it expedition style. How about a climber who's done all the big North faces of the Alps? They might very well be invited on an alpine style climb in the Himalaya.






    share|improve this answer




























      9















      alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas




      Actually, as far as I can tell from the current climbing literature, alpine style climbs in the Himalaya are relatively common these days. Expedition style climbs (at least the only ones that attract any attention) are now mostly for paying customers with guides. I suspect there are also still private alpinists doing hybrid climbs in the Himalayas, but they don't get covered much in the climbing press.



      The highest Himalayan peaks (8000 m) are roughly twice the height of the highest peaks in the Alps or North America outside of Alaska and the Yukon (4000 m). The additional altitude makes a huge difference: Climbers can typically acclimatize to 4000 m in a matter of days. Acclimatizing to 6000 m takes weeks, and even alpine style climbers generally have to have support teams or porters to get all the food and gear to a base camp where they do their acclimatization. Climbers don't acclimatize to altitudes over 8000 m, they slowly die. Climbers can get fatal altitude related conditions like cerebral edema at 4000 m, but the higher you go the more common these become, even with supplementary oxygen.




      Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in
      2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the
      Himalayas?




      This is too broad to be answered because "moderately experienced" is vague. Is a climber who can climb the Hornli ridge on the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, or the Gouter Hut Route on Mt. Blanc, without a guide, a moderately experience climber? They probably could qualify for a guided climb of Mt. Everest, but they'd be doing it expedition style. How about a climber who's done all the big North faces of the Alps? They might very well be invited on an alpine style climb in the Himalaya.






      share|improve this answer


























        9












        9








        9







        alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas




        Actually, as far as I can tell from the current climbing literature, alpine style climbs in the Himalaya are relatively common these days. Expedition style climbs (at least the only ones that attract any attention) are now mostly for paying customers with guides. I suspect there are also still private alpinists doing hybrid climbs in the Himalayas, but they don't get covered much in the climbing press.



        The highest Himalayan peaks (8000 m) are roughly twice the height of the highest peaks in the Alps or North America outside of Alaska and the Yukon (4000 m). The additional altitude makes a huge difference: Climbers can typically acclimatize to 4000 m in a matter of days. Acclimatizing to 6000 m takes weeks, and even alpine style climbers generally have to have support teams or porters to get all the food and gear to a base camp where they do their acclimatization. Climbers don't acclimatize to altitudes over 8000 m, they slowly die. Climbers can get fatal altitude related conditions like cerebral edema at 4000 m, but the higher you go the more common these become, even with supplementary oxygen.




        Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in
        2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the
        Himalayas?




        This is too broad to be answered because "moderately experienced" is vague. Is a climber who can climb the Hornli ridge on the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, or the Gouter Hut Route on Mt. Blanc, without a guide, a moderately experience climber? They probably could qualify for a guided climb of Mt. Everest, but they'd be doing it expedition style. How about a climber who's done all the big North faces of the Alps? They might very well be invited on an alpine style climb in the Himalaya.






        share|improve this answer















        alpine style remains relatively rare in the Himalayas




        Actually, as far as I can tell from the current climbing literature, alpine style climbs in the Himalaya are relatively common these days. Expedition style climbs (at least the only ones that attract any attention) are now mostly for paying customers with guides. I suspect there are also still private alpinists doing hybrid climbs in the Himalayas, but they don't get covered much in the climbing press.



        The highest Himalayan peaks (8000 m) are roughly twice the height of the highest peaks in the Alps or North America outside of Alaska and the Yukon (4000 m). The additional altitude makes a huge difference: Climbers can typically acclimatize to 4000 m in a matter of days. Acclimatizing to 6000 m takes weeks, and even alpine style climbers generally have to have support teams or porters to get all the food and gear to a base camp where they do their acclimatization. Climbers don't acclimatize to altitudes over 8000 m, they slowly die. Climbers can get fatal altitude related conditions like cerebral edema at 4000 m, but the higher you go the more common these become, even with supplementary oxygen.




        Can a moderately experienced climber, who might summit solo or in
        2-person teams in European/American peaks, attempt the same in the
        Himalayas?




        This is too broad to be answered because "moderately experienced" is vague. Is a climber who can climb the Hornli ridge on the Matterhorn, Monte Rosa, or the Gouter Hut Route on Mt. Blanc, without a guide, a moderately experience climber? They probably could qualify for a guided climb of Mt. Everest, but they'd be doing it expedition style. How about a climber who's done all the big North faces of the Alps? They might very well be invited on an alpine style climb in the Himalaya.







        share|improve this answer














        share|improve this answer



        share|improve this answer








        edited Dec 27 '18 at 1:47

























        answered Dec 27 '18 at 1:41









        Charles E. Grant

        2,078917




        2,078917






























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