Roadbike with aluminium wheels in mountains. Is it safe?












10















I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.










share|improve this question




















  • 8





    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 10:57











  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.

    – Dariusz
    Jan 8 at 11:05











  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 11:10






  • 1





    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes

    – Andy P
    Jan 8 at 11:50






  • 2





    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin

    – Chris H
    Jan 8 at 14:15
















10















I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.










share|improve this question




















  • 8





    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 10:57











  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.

    – Dariusz
    Jan 8 at 11:05











  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 11:10






  • 1





    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes

    – Andy P
    Jan 8 at 11:50






  • 2





    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin

    – Chris H
    Jan 8 at 14:15














10












10








10








I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.










share|improve this question
















I'm planning my upcoming trip to ride real mountains in Spain on my road bike. So far I used Mavic Ksyrium aluminum wheels but mostly on flat areas.



I'm not confident with going downhill on this wheels because when I do downhill my wheels becomes hot from braking. I'm using clincher with tubes inside and standard Shimano brake pads. Should I be worried? Is it safe for inner tube?



I'm asking because I've heard a story about exploding inner tube from heat :(



I was thinking about going tubeless but never tried this on my current set and I don't want to experiment until its needed.







wheels safety






share|improve this question















share|improve this question













share|improve this question




share|improve this question








edited Jan 8 at 10:43







Dariusz

















asked Jan 8 at 10:35









DariuszDariusz

19218




19218








  • 8





    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 10:57











  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.

    – Dariusz
    Jan 8 at 11:05











  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 11:10






  • 1





    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes

    – Andy P
    Jan 8 at 11:50






  • 2





    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin

    – Chris H
    Jan 8 at 14:15














  • 8





    I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 10:57











  • I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.

    – Dariusz
    Jan 8 at 11:05











  • No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.

    – Klaster_1
    Jan 8 at 11:10






  • 1





    @Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes

    – Andy P
    Jan 8 at 11:50






  • 2





    @AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin

    – Chris H
    Jan 8 at 14:15








8




8





I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.

– Klaster_1
Jan 8 at 10:57





I'd consider improving braking technique before switching to tubeless for this particular reason.

– Klaster_1
Jan 8 at 10:57













I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.

– Dariusz
Jan 8 at 11:05





I was afraid that someone will suggest this as a solution. I'm not totally weak in case of technique but know my limits and don't want to act like Vicenzo Nibali while I'm far from him. I dont want to go like 80km/h and break before curve unless I'm in Torude de France with closed traffic. Dont get me wrong.

– Dariusz
Jan 8 at 11:05













No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.

– Klaster_1
Jan 8 at 11:10





No hard feelings, but somebody would have mentioned that sooner or later, lol.

– Klaster_1
Jan 8 at 11:10




1




1





@Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes

– Andy P
Jan 8 at 11:50





@Dariusz On long mountain descents, you can effectively manage your speed by sitting up taller and sticking your knees and elbows out. In this way you can generally keep your speed to around 65kph. On long mountains it is quite rare to get very steep sections that require you to scrub speed with the brakes

– Andy P
Jan 8 at 11:50




2




2





@AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin

– Chris H
Jan 8 at 14:15





@AndyP that depends who else is on the road. I did a couple of passes (in the English Lake District) on new year's day, only a few hundred metres descent each but on single track roads with cars about. I could smell my discs and water sizzled on them. Cable discs and sintered pads are made for it though. Conversely they didn't get that hot coming down the Col d'Izoard on a hot day, because there I could let it go and brake just before a hairpin

– Chris H
Jan 8 at 14:15










4 Answers
4






active

oldest

votes


















9














I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






share|improve this answer































    11














    When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






    share|improve this answer


























    • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!

      – Carel
      Jan 8 at 15:31











    • The tube holds the air, the tire the pressure so the tube does not explode. Whats the failure that makes latex tubes cause a blowout?

      – mattnz
      Jan 8 at 23:49






    • 1





      They melt at a much lower temperature causing a huge hole which allows all of the air inside to escape much more quickly than a regular puncture. Since it only happens in high speed descents, it can be very dangerous.

      – Carbon side up
      Jan 8 at 23:58











    • OK, I now understand my problem. The loose use of the term Blowout - a tube leaking into the casing of the tire is a flat, but it happens relatively slowly. A 'Blowout' is an instantaneous loss of all pressure, and can only occur with catastrophic the failure of the container (tire or rim). The only question that remains is how long before a flat is noticed before the pressure is low enough to roll a tire off the rim (Technically not a blowout, but has the same result for the rider)

      – mattnz
      Jan 9 at 0:02













    • When a latex tube fails due to heat, it can certainly be described as a blow out. It will make a bang and go down almost instantly. Mine resulted in a 30 cm long tear in the tube, but I've seen some that were bigger still.

      – Carbon side up
      Jan 9 at 8:23



















    9














    There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



    Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






    share|improve this answer































      2














      So far, I've witnessed one blowout with a rim brake in the alps. However, the cause was not heat but that the rim was braked through (i.e. a section of ≈ 120° split off). (Fortunately, nothing bad happened, and that guy was in a group that had a van alongside with them)

      Take home message: take care that the rims are still sufficiently thick.



      The one descent so far where we've been taking some extra caution was going down from the Vršič pass at 1611 m into the Soča valley at 780 m (≈ 9 % for a bit more than 9 km). The first part can be done at comparably high speed so air resistance helps. But the lower 5 km (ca. 500 m of the elevation loss) have one hairpin bend after the other (IIRC 19 in total). While there's decent asphalt in between, the hairpins tend to be done in cobble stone and may have loose sand on top. In other words, forget about using drag to get rid of excess energy. Our bikes were loaded with full camping tour gear (back panniers + low riders in front). On that descent we did stop several times to check temperature (and let the lined up cars and buses pass). While I don't have thermometer readings, we did reach "finger says ouch". We also employed water cooling: wet the rim surface - when you are around, the rim is dry again ;-)



      (BTW: I don't recommend Vršič as there was a lot of traffic - everything from bikes over motor bikes, cars to fully-grown motor coaches)



      You may be interested in these records of maximum rim temperatures together with whether they did have a blow-out or not.



      I'm not at all sure that tubeless tires stand rim temperature any better than the tube variety.






      share|improve this answer
























      • Pay attention to the weight and ambient temperature in the linked temperature table. In all cases of blowout except one, they were over 120kg and 30C (i.e. a lot of energy from the mass and poorer cooling from airflow).

        – mattnz
        Jan 8 at 22:30











      • @mattnz: yes. Also, the bikes seem to be recumbent, so less air drag, more energy to be dissipated via brake. But ambient temp of up to 30 °C is something OP may encounter in the valleys in the Pyrenees as well, the weight will of course depend a lot on whether they want to do road bike day tours or carry on their luggage. But I'm pretty sure I've had total weight in the 120 - 140 kg order of magnitude during camping tours. OTOH, note that the blowouts didn't happen on descents of many 100 m but comparably small descents (525, 265, 50 (!) m).

        – cbeleites
        Jan 9 at 9:52











      Your Answer








      StackExchange.ready(function() {
      var channelOptions = {
      tags: "".split(" "),
      id: "126"
      };
      initTagRenderer("".split(" "), "".split(" "), channelOptions);

      StackExchange.using("externalEditor", function() {
      // Have to fire editor after snippets, if snippets enabled
      if (StackExchange.settings.snippets.snippetsEnabled) {
      StackExchange.using("snippets", function() {
      createEditor();
      });
      }
      else {
      createEditor();
      }
      });

      function createEditor() {
      StackExchange.prepareEditor({
      heartbeatType: 'answer',
      autoActivateHeartbeat: false,
      convertImagesToLinks: false,
      noModals: true,
      showLowRepImageUploadWarning: true,
      reputationToPostImages: null,
      bindNavPrevention: true,
      postfix: "",
      imageUploader: {
      brandingHtml: "Powered by u003ca class="icon-imgur-white" href="https://imgur.com/"u003eu003c/au003e",
      contentPolicyHtml: "User contributions licensed under u003ca href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/"u003ecc by-sa 3.0 with attribution requiredu003c/au003e u003ca href="https://stackoverflow.com/legal/content-policy"u003e(content policy)u003c/au003e",
      allowUrls: true
      },
      noCode: true, onDemand: true,
      discardSelector: ".discard-answer"
      ,immediatelyShowMarkdownHelp:true
      });


      }
      });














      draft saved

      draft discarded


















      StackExchange.ready(
      function () {
      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f58798%2froadbike-with-aluminium-wheels-in-mountains-is-it-safe%23new-answer', 'question_page');
      }
      );

      Post as a guest















      Required, but never shown

























      4 Answers
      4






      active

      oldest

      votes








      4 Answers
      4






      active

      oldest

      votes









      active

      oldest

      votes






      active

      oldest

      votes









      9














      I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
      What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



      Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

      The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



      I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



      To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






      share|improve this answer




























        9














        I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
        What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



        Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

        The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



        I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



        To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






        share|improve this answer


























          9












          9








          9







          I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
          What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



          Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

          The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



          I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



          To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!






          share|improve this answer













          I'd say that it is more about the braking technique you are using and not the wheels themselves when it comes down to overheating. See the following thread where similar topic is discussed:
          What is best for your brakes when stopping at the bottom of the hill?



          Have a look at this article as well: Braking and blowouts

          The author claims that aluminium wheels get heated up quickly but they also quickly cool down provided they keep spinning (airflow). Thus never brake hard to a complete stop, allow your rims to cool down.



          I've ridden couple of Eroica events which are known for heavy climbs and long descends and I haven't noticed anyone suffering from overheat tire blowout (punctures on a rough terrain is a completely different story altogether).



          To answer your question - master the braking technique I mentioned and enjoy your trip to Spain!







          share|improve this answer












          share|improve this answer



          share|improve this answer










          answered Jan 8 at 11:15









          MikeMike

          3,47611026




          3,47611026























              11














              When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






              share|improve this answer


























              • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!

                – Carel
                Jan 8 at 15:31











              • The tube holds the air, the tire the pressure so the tube does not explode. Whats the failure that makes latex tubes cause a blowout?

                – mattnz
                Jan 8 at 23:49






              • 1





                They melt at a much lower temperature causing a huge hole which allows all of the air inside to escape much more quickly than a regular puncture. Since it only happens in high speed descents, it can be very dangerous.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 8 at 23:58











              • OK, I now understand my problem. The loose use of the term Blowout - a tube leaking into the casing of the tire is a flat, but it happens relatively slowly. A 'Blowout' is an instantaneous loss of all pressure, and can only occur with catastrophic the failure of the container (tire or rim). The only question that remains is how long before a flat is noticed before the pressure is low enough to roll a tire off the rim (Technically not a blowout, but has the same result for the rider)

                – mattnz
                Jan 9 at 0:02













              • When a latex tube fails due to heat, it can certainly be described as a blow out. It will make a bang and go down almost instantly. Mine resulted in a 30 cm long tear in the tube, but I've seen some that were bigger still.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 9 at 8:23
















              11














              When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






              share|improve this answer


























              • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!

                – Carel
                Jan 8 at 15:31











              • The tube holds the air, the tire the pressure so the tube does not explode. Whats the failure that makes latex tubes cause a blowout?

                – mattnz
                Jan 8 at 23:49






              • 1





                They melt at a much lower temperature causing a huge hole which allows all of the air inside to escape much more quickly than a regular puncture. Since it only happens in high speed descents, it can be very dangerous.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 8 at 23:58











              • OK, I now understand my problem. The loose use of the term Blowout - a tube leaking into the casing of the tire is a flat, but it happens relatively slowly. A 'Blowout' is an instantaneous loss of all pressure, and can only occur with catastrophic the failure of the container (tire or rim). The only question that remains is how long before a flat is noticed before the pressure is low enough to roll a tire off the rim (Technically not a blowout, but has the same result for the rider)

                – mattnz
                Jan 9 at 0:02













              • When a latex tube fails due to heat, it can certainly be described as a blow out. It will make a bang and go down almost instantly. Mine resulted in a 30 cm long tear in the tube, but I've seen some that were bigger still.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 9 at 8:23














              11












              11








              11







              When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.






              share|improve this answer















              When people talk about blowouts from braking heat, they're usually referring to latex tubes being used with rim-brake carbon clincher wheels. This combination can indeed lead to blowouts on long, fast descents if you aren't careful. I used to run latex tubes with my carbon race wheels, but after having two tube blowouts, I switched back to traditional butyl tubes and never had the issue again. If you're concerned about heat, just ensure that you're using butyl tubes, not latex.







              share|improve this answer














              share|improve this answer



              share|improve this answer








              edited Jan 8 at 15:42









              David Richerby

              10.2k33255




              10.2k33255










              answered Jan 8 at 12:04









              Carbon side upCarbon side up

              1,558215




              1,558215













              • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!

                – Carel
                Jan 8 at 15:31











              • The tube holds the air, the tire the pressure so the tube does not explode. Whats the failure that makes latex tubes cause a blowout?

                – mattnz
                Jan 8 at 23:49






              • 1





                They melt at a much lower temperature causing a huge hole which allows all of the air inside to escape much more quickly than a regular puncture. Since it only happens in high speed descents, it can be very dangerous.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 8 at 23:58











              • OK, I now understand my problem. The loose use of the term Blowout - a tube leaking into the casing of the tire is a flat, but it happens relatively slowly. A 'Blowout' is an instantaneous loss of all pressure, and can only occur with catastrophic the failure of the container (tire or rim). The only question that remains is how long before a flat is noticed before the pressure is low enough to roll a tire off the rim (Technically not a blowout, but has the same result for the rider)

                – mattnz
                Jan 9 at 0:02













              • When a latex tube fails due to heat, it can certainly be described as a blow out. It will make a bang and go down almost instantly. Mine resulted in a 30 cm long tear in the tube, but I've seen some that were bigger still.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 9 at 8:23



















              • Also heavy duty tubes maybe!

                – Carel
                Jan 8 at 15:31











              • The tube holds the air, the tire the pressure so the tube does not explode. Whats the failure that makes latex tubes cause a blowout?

                – mattnz
                Jan 8 at 23:49






              • 1





                They melt at a much lower temperature causing a huge hole which allows all of the air inside to escape much more quickly than a regular puncture. Since it only happens in high speed descents, it can be very dangerous.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 8 at 23:58











              • OK, I now understand my problem. The loose use of the term Blowout - a tube leaking into the casing of the tire is a flat, but it happens relatively slowly. A 'Blowout' is an instantaneous loss of all pressure, and can only occur with catastrophic the failure of the container (tire or rim). The only question that remains is how long before a flat is noticed before the pressure is low enough to roll a tire off the rim (Technically not a blowout, but has the same result for the rider)

                – mattnz
                Jan 9 at 0:02













              • When a latex tube fails due to heat, it can certainly be described as a blow out. It will make a bang and go down almost instantly. Mine resulted in a 30 cm long tear in the tube, but I've seen some that were bigger still.

                – Carbon side up
                Jan 9 at 8:23

















              Also heavy duty tubes maybe!

              – Carel
              Jan 8 at 15:31





              Also heavy duty tubes maybe!

              – Carel
              Jan 8 at 15:31













              The tube holds the air, the tire the pressure so the tube does not explode. Whats the failure that makes latex tubes cause a blowout?

              – mattnz
              Jan 8 at 23:49





              The tube holds the air, the tire the pressure so the tube does not explode. Whats the failure that makes latex tubes cause a blowout?

              – mattnz
              Jan 8 at 23:49




              1




              1





              They melt at a much lower temperature causing a huge hole which allows all of the air inside to escape much more quickly than a regular puncture. Since it only happens in high speed descents, it can be very dangerous.

              – Carbon side up
              Jan 8 at 23:58





              They melt at a much lower temperature causing a huge hole which allows all of the air inside to escape much more quickly than a regular puncture. Since it only happens in high speed descents, it can be very dangerous.

              – Carbon side up
              Jan 8 at 23:58













              OK, I now understand my problem. The loose use of the term Blowout - a tube leaking into the casing of the tire is a flat, but it happens relatively slowly. A 'Blowout' is an instantaneous loss of all pressure, and can only occur with catastrophic the failure of the container (tire or rim). The only question that remains is how long before a flat is noticed before the pressure is low enough to roll a tire off the rim (Technically not a blowout, but has the same result for the rider)

              – mattnz
              Jan 9 at 0:02







              OK, I now understand my problem. The loose use of the term Blowout - a tube leaking into the casing of the tire is a flat, but it happens relatively slowly. A 'Blowout' is an instantaneous loss of all pressure, and can only occur with catastrophic the failure of the container (tire or rim). The only question that remains is how long before a flat is noticed before the pressure is low enough to roll a tire off the rim (Technically not a blowout, but has the same result for the rider)

              – mattnz
              Jan 9 at 0:02















              When a latex tube fails due to heat, it can certainly be described as a blow out. It will make a bang and go down almost instantly. Mine resulted in a 30 cm long tear in the tube, but I've seen some that were bigger still.

              – Carbon side up
              Jan 9 at 8:23





              When a latex tube fails due to heat, it can certainly be described as a blow out. It will make a bang and go down almost instantly. Mine resulted in a 30 cm long tear in the tube, but I've seen some that were bigger still.

              – Carbon side up
              Jan 9 at 8:23











              9














              There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



              Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






              share|improve this answer




























                9














                There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






                share|improve this answer


























                  9












                  9








                  9







                  There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                  Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.






                  share|improve this answer













                  There really is nothing to worry about. Ksyriums have been popular OEM equipment and mid range upgrades for at least 10 years and 1000's of people are riding them in the mountains every year with no issues.



                  Personally, I have been riding the same set of Ksyrium Elites since 2011 and have ridden the Alps, Pyrenees, Dolomites and Corsica on them with no issues.







                  share|improve this answer












                  share|improve this answer



                  share|improve this answer










                  answered Jan 8 at 11:47









                  Andy PAndy P

                  3,400713




                  3,400713























                      2














                      So far, I've witnessed one blowout with a rim brake in the alps. However, the cause was not heat but that the rim was braked through (i.e. a section of ≈ 120° split off). (Fortunately, nothing bad happened, and that guy was in a group that had a van alongside with them)

                      Take home message: take care that the rims are still sufficiently thick.



                      The one descent so far where we've been taking some extra caution was going down from the Vršič pass at 1611 m into the Soča valley at 780 m (≈ 9 % for a bit more than 9 km). The first part can be done at comparably high speed so air resistance helps. But the lower 5 km (ca. 500 m of the elevation loss) have one hairpin bend after the other (IIRC 19 in total). While there's decent asphalt in between, the hairpins tend to be done in cobble stone and may have loose sand on top. In other words, forget about using drag to get rid of excess energy. Our bikes were loaded with full camping tour gear (back panniers + low riders in front). On that descent we did stop several times to check temperature (and let the lined up cars and buses pass). While I don't have thermometer readings, we did reach "finger says ouch". We also employed water cooling: wet the rim surface - when you are around, the rim is dry again ;-)



                      (BTW: I don't recommend Vršič as there was a lot of traffic - everything from bikes over motor bikes, cars to fully-grown motor coaches)



                      You may be interested in these records of maximum rim temperatures together with whether they did have a blow-out or not.



                      I'm not at all sure that tubeless tires stand rim temperature any better than the tube variety.






                      share|improve this answer
























                      • Pay attention to the weight and ambient temperature in the linked temperature table. In all cases of blowout except one, they were over 120kg and 30C (i.e. a lot of energy from the mass and poorer cooling from airflow).

                        – mattnz
                        Jan 8 at 22:30











                      • @mattnz: yes. Also, the bikes seem to be recumbent, so less air drag, more energy to be dissipated via brake. But ambient temp of up to 30 °C is something OP may encounter in the valleys in the Pyrenees as well, the weight will of course depend a lot on whether they want to do road bike day tours or carry on their luggage. But I'm pretty sure I've had total weight in the 120 - 140 kg order of magnitude during camping tours. OTOH, note that the blowouts didn't happen on descents of many 100 m but comparably small descents (525, 265, 50 (!) m).

                        – cbeleites
                        Jan 9 at 9:52
















                      2














                      So far, I've witnessed one blowout with a rim brake in the alps. However, the cause was not heat but that the rim was braked through (i.e. a section of ≈ 120° split off). (Fortunately, nothing bad happened, and that guy was in a group that had a van alongside with them)

                      Take home message: take care that the rims are still sufficiently thick.



                      The one descent so far where we've been taking some extra caution was going down from the Vršič pass at 1611 m into the Soča valley at 780 m (≈ 9 % for a bit more than 9 km). The first part can be done at comparably high speed so air resistance helps. But the lower 5 km (ca. 500 m of the elevation loss) have one hairpin bend after the other (IIRC 19 in total). While there's decent asphalt in between, the hairpins tend to be done in cobble stone and may have loose sand on top. In other words, forget about using drag to get rid of excess energy. Our bikes were loaded with full camping tour gear (back panniers + low riders in front). On that descent we did stop several times to check temperature (and let the lined up cars and buses pass). While I don't have thermometer readings, we did reach "finger says ouch". We also employed water cooling: wet the rim surface - when you are around, the rim is dry again ;-)



                      (BTW: I don't recommend Vršič as there was a lot of traffic - everything from bikes over motor bikes, cars to fully-grown motor coaches)



                      You may be interested in these records of maximum rim temperatures together with whether they did have a blow-out or not.



                      I'm not at all sure that tubeless tires stand rim temperature any better than the tube variety.






                      share|improve this answer
























                      • Pay attention to the weight and ambient temperature in the linked temperature table. In all cases of blowout except one, they were over 120kg and 30C (i.e. a lot of energy from the mass and poorer cooling from airflow).

                        – mattnz
                        Jan 8 at 22:30











                      • @mattnz: yes. Also, the bikes seem to be recumbent, so less air drag, more energy to be dissipated via brake. But ambient temp of up to 30 °C is something OP may encounter in the valleys in the Pyrenees as well, the weight will of course depend a lot on whether they want to do road bike day tours or carry on their luggage. But I'm pretty sure I've had total weight in the 120 - 140 kg order of magnitude during camping tours. OTOH, note that the blowouts didn't happen on descents of many 100 m but comparably small descents (525, 265, 50 (!) m).

                        – cbeleites
                        Jan 9 at 9:52














                      2












                      2








                      2







                      So far, I've witnessed one blowout with a rim brake in the alps. However, the cause was not heat but that the rim was braked through (i.e. a section of ≈ 120° split off). (Fortunately, nothing bad happened, and that guy was in a group that had a van alongside with them)

                      Take home message: take care that the rims are still sufficiently thick.



                      The one descent so far where we've been taking some extra caution was going down from the Vršič pass at 1611 m into the Soča valley at 780 m (≈ 9 % for a bit more than 9 km). The first part can be done at comparably high speed so air resistance helps. But the lower 5 km (ca. 500 m of the elevation loss) have one hairpin bend after the other (IIRC 19 in total). While there's decent asphalt in between, the hairpins tend to be done in cobble stone and may have loose sand on top. In other words, forget about using drag to get rid of excess energy. Our bikes were loaded with full camping tour gear (back panniers + low riders in front). On that descent we did stop several times to check temperature (and let the lined up cars and buses pass). While I don't have thermometer readings, we did reach "finger says ouch". We also employed water cooling: wet the rim surface - when you are around, the rim is dry again ;-)



                      (BTW: I don't recommend Vršič as there was a lot of traffic - everything from bikes over motor bikes, cars to fully-grown motor coaches)



                      You may be interested in these records of maximum rim temperatures together with whether they did have a blow-out or not.



                      I'm not at all sure that tubeless tires stand rim temperature any better than the tube variety.






                      share|improve this answer













                      So far, I've witnessed one blowout with a rim brake in the alps. However, the cause was not heat but that the rim was braked through (i.e. a section of ≈ 120° split off). (Fortunately, nothing bad happened, and that guy was in a group that had a van alongside with them)

                      Take home message: take care that the rims are still sufficiently thick.



                      The one descent so far where we've been taking some extra caution was going down from the Vršič pass at 1611 m into the Soča valley at 780 m (≈ 9 % for a bit more than 9 km). The first part can be done at comparably high speed so air resistance helps. But the lower 5 km (ca. 500 m of the elevation loss) have one hairpin bend after the other (IIRC 19 in total). While there's decent asphalt in between, the hairpins tend to be done in cobble stone and may have loose sand on top. In other words, forget about using drag to get rid of excess energy. Our bikes were loaded with full camping tour gear (back panniers + low riders in front). On that descent we did stop several times to check temperature (and let the lined up cars and buses pass). While I don't have thermometer readings, we did reach "finger says ouch". We also employed water cooling: wet the rim surface - when you are around, the rim is dry again ;-)



                      (BTW: I don't recommend Vršič as there was a lot of traffic - everything from bikes over motor bikes, cars to fully-grown motor coaches)



                      You may be interested in these records of maximum rim temperatures together with whether they did have a blow-out or not.



                      I'm not at all sure that tubeless tires stand rim temperature any better than the tube variety.







                      share|improve this answer












                      share|improve this answer



                      share|improve this answer










                      answered Jan 8 at 20:44









                      cbeleitescbeleites

                      48145




                      48145













                      • Pay attention to the weight and ambient temperature in the linked temperature table. In all cases of blowout except one, they were over 120kg and 30C (i.e. a lot of energy from the mass and poorer cooling from airflow).

                        – mattnz
                        Jan 8 at 22:30











                      • @mattnz: yes. Also, the bikes seem to be recumbent, so less air drag, more energy to be dissipated via brake. But ambient temp of up to 30 °C is something OP may encounter in the valleys in the Pyrenees as well, the weight will of course depend a lot on whether they want to do road bike day tours or carry on their luggage. But I'm pretty sure I've had total weight in the 120 - 140 kg order of magnitude during camping tours. OTOH, note that the blowouts didn't happen on descents of many 100 m but comparably small descents (525, 265, 50 (!) m).

                        – cbeleites
                        Jan 9 at 9:52



















                      • Pay attention to the weight and ambient temperature in the linked temperature table. In all cases of blowout except one, they were over 120kg and 30C (i.e. a lot of energy from the mass and poorer cooling from airflow).

                        – mattnz
                        Jan 8 at 22:30











                      • @mattnz: yes. Also, the bikes seem to be recumbent, so less air drag, more energy to be dissipated via brake. But ambient temp of up to 30 °C is something OP may encounter in the valleys in the Pyrenees as well, the weight will of course depend a lot on whether they want to do road bike day tours or carry on their luggage. But I'm pretty sure I've had total weight in the 120 - 140 kg order of magnitude during camping tours. OTOH, note that the blowouts didn't happen on descents of many 100 m but comparably small descents (525, 265, 50 (!) m).

                        – cbeleites
                        Jan 9 at 9:52

















                      Pay attention to the weight and ambient temperature in the linked temperature table. In all cases of blowout except one, they were over 120kg and 30C (i.e. a lot of energy from the mass and poorer cooling from airflow).

                      – mattnz
                      Jan 8 at 22:30





                      Pay attention to the weight and ambient temperature in the linked temperature table. In all cases of blowout except one, they were over 120kg and 30C (i.e. a lot of energy from the mass and poorer cooling from airflow).

                      – mattnz
                      Jan 8 at 22:30













                      @mattnz: yes. Also, the bikes seem to be recumbent, so less air drag, more energy to be dissipated via brake. But ambient temp of up to 30 °C is something OP may encounter in the valleys in the Pyrenees as well, the weight will of course depend a lot on whether they want to do road bike day tours or carry on their luggage. But I'm pretty sure I've had total weight in the 120 - 140 kg order of magnitude during camping tours. OTOH, note that the blowouts didn't happen on descents of many 100 m but comparably small descents (525, 265, 50 (!) m).

                      – cbeleites
                      Jan 9 at 9:52





                      @mattnz: yes. Also, the bikes seem to be recumbent, so less air drag, more energy to be dissipated via brake. But ambient temp of up to 30 °C is something OP may encounter in the valleys in the Pyrenees as well, the weight will of course depend a lot on whether they want to do road bike day tours or carry on their luggage. But I'm pretty sure I've had total weight in the 120 - 140 kg order of magnitude during camping tours. OTOH, note that the blowouts didn't happen on descents of many 100 m but comparably small descents (525, 265, 50 (!) m).

                      – cbeleites
                      Jan 9 at 9:52


















                      draft saved

                      draft discarded




















































                      Thanks for contributing an answer to Bicycles Stack Exchange!


                      • Please be sure to answer the question. Provide details and share your research!

                      But avoid



                      • Asking for help, clarification, or responding to other answers.

                      • Making statements based on opinion; back them up with references or personal experience.


                      To learn more, see our tips on writing great answers.




                      draft saved


                      draft discarded














                      StackExchange.ready(
                      function () {
                      StackExchange.openid.initPostLogin('.new-post-login', 'https%3a%2f%2fbicycles.stackexchange.com%2fquestions%2f58798%2froadbike-with-aluminium-wheels-in-mountains-is-it-safe%23new-answer', 'question_page');
                      }
                      );

                      Post as a guest















                      Required, but never shown





















































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown

































                      Required, but never shown














                      Required, but never shown












                      Required, but never shown







                      Required, but never shown







                      Popular posts from this blog

                      How to change which sound is reproduced for terminal bell?

                      Title Spacing in Bjornstrup Chapter, Removing Chapter Number From Contents

                      Can I use Tabulator js library in my java Spring + Thymeleaf project?