Heating basement floor with water heater
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
add a comment |
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
Mar 5 at 16:42
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
Mar 5 at 19:57
add a comment |
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
Can I simply add a loop of pex from my water heater, under my flooring, and back into itself? Would I need some sort of pump? I haven't laid the tile yet and water heater is right on the outside wall of the bathroom I'm building. Would I need to put this between the backer and the tile?
basement heating floor
basement heating floor
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
asked Mar 5 at 13:48
BigLakeBigLake
13611
13611
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
Mar 5 at 16:42
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
Mar 5 at 19:57
add a comment |
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
Mar 5 at 16:42
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
Mar 5 at 19:57
1
1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
Mar 5 at 16:42
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
Mar 5 at 16:42
1
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
Mar 5 at 19:57
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
Mar 5 at 19:57
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to you
www.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available 
www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:01
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:06
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:11
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:15
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:32
|
show 5 more comments
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
Mar 5 at 22:39
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:21
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
Mar 5 at 18:47
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:01
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:06
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:11
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:15
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:32
|
show 5 more comments
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:01
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:06
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:11
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:15
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:32
|
show 5 more comments
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
Adding hydronic radiant floor heating is a lot more complicated than you could imagine. To do a system for a bathroom running off of a domestic water tank, in operation for potable water requires all potable water components. Potable water components are expensive.
This is the simplest picture I could find and it still doesn't technically apply to youwww.floorheatsystems.com
The storage tank isn't being used for domestic water. It's only being used for floor heating.
Other things that you need to consider are legionnaires bacteria radiant floor temperatures are right at the bacteria's ideal growth temperature of around 115 degrees Fahrenheit.
The Solution
Electric radiant floor heating is your best bet.
Resistive electric floor heating mats are available www.findanyfloor.com
This requires a little bit of electrical but is much simpler to install. It's also much thinner then pex.
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
edited Mar 5 at 15:45
isherwood
49.6k456126
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
answered Mar 5 at 14:51
Joe FalaJoe Fala
3,036121
3,036121
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:01
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:06
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:11
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:15
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:32
|
show 5 more comments
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:01
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:06
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:11
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:15
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:32
1
1
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:01
On a side note, there are systems that do tankless water and radiant heat in one unit. From what I can tell these are called 'open-direct' systems. I don't think the OP is looking to replace but I thought it was worth mentioning as a relatively new option.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:01
1
1
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:06
Yes and they are basically a fully functional boiler with a built-in heat exchanger requiring all the necessary boiler components. Colloquially called Combi units. I use Navien and oddly enough I'm actually working on one right now. To be honest electric resistive rating Heating is my arch nemesis is it cuts into my action. Sometimes it is the only practical option.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:06
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:11
I'm curious about these since I'm thinking of going tankless and have forced water radiant. Potential downside is that you lose both heat and water if it goes out. But on the other hand, you don't have to worry so much about whether it will start up when it gets cold since it will get year-round use.
– JimmyJames
Mar 5 at 18:11
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:15
Power outages are a concern but in reality it's only a problem if you are showing with the lights off and you get hit with an unholy cold suddenly.
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:15
1
1
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:32
I was unclear, a power outage with a Combi unit will result in immediate cold water hitting you in the shower as opposed to a tank or the water will gradually cool
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:32
|
show 5 more comments
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
Mar 5 at 22:39
add a comment |
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
Mar 5 at 22:39
add a comment |
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
A loop unto itself cannot flow.
Seriously. Imagine a hula-hoop full of water. Not much floor will get heated from that.
You need a suitable pump and thermostatic control, plus it may not be legal to tie heating into your potable water supply. Most floor and radiator heating systems are closed-loop and contain anti-freeze and anti-microbial treatments.
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
answered Mar 5 at 13:51
isherwoodisherwood
49.6k456126
49.6k456126
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
Mar 5 at 22:39
add a comment |
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
Mar 5 at 22:39
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
Mar 5 at 22:39
You can use convective flow. I've seen someone do it for a no-moving-parts computer cooling system, though that was more proof-of-concept than anything practical (and I can't picture scaling it up to something room-sized).
– Mark
Mar 5 at 22:39
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:21
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
Mar 5 at 18:47
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:21
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
Mar 5 at 18:47
add a comment |
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
I tried heating my garage in the winter using my water heater and all copper piping connected to finned tube radiation. What a waste of my time and money. With the water heater temperature set at 130 degrees and a small bronze pump the finned tube radiation yielded almost no heating. If you want to heat the floor it can be done but you will need a lot of under the floor tubing and not just a few feet of it due to the relatively low water tank temperature. If you have a hot air furnace you can heat the basement fairly well if you do it correctly
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
answered Mar 5 at 16:11
d.georged.george
5,8512814
5,8512814
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:21
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
Mar 5 at 18:47
add a comment |
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:21
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
Mar 5 at 18:47
3
3
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:21
Finned tube btu outputs are usually rated at 180 degrees fahrenheit. At 130 they will no output much heat at all. The rely on convection and need a significant temperature gradient to be effective
– Joe Fala
Mar 5 at 18:21
1
1
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
Mar 5 at 18:47
This answer is a great example of why you should do the math and try to predict effectiveness before spending money on something like it.
– R..
Mar 5 at 18:47
add a comment |
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1
An electric space heater with a fan would be more practical.
– blacksmith37
Mar 5 at 16:42
1
You would need some sort of pump.
– Hot Licks
Mar 5 at 19:57